The island of Djerba, a beach lover’s paradise with its wild, sweeping sandy shores, is known as the island of dreams, flanking the sparkling Tunisian coastline and guarding an unexpected treasure. Concealed in the modest yet picturesque whitewashed village of Erriadh is a remarkable collection of contemporary urban artwork, woven throughout the surfaces of homes and passageways in this historic community.

This small, unassuming village is home to ‘Djerbahood,’ an open-air art gallery established in 2014. The aesthetic Erriadh features 250 murals, ranging from simple painted pottery to vast, timeless political statements addressing global issues. The project initially attracted 130 artists from 30 countries, and even in 2023, nearly a decade after the first artworks were created, the fading marks of the artists persist.

The island of Djerba, a beach lover’s paradise with its wild, sweeping sandy shores, is known as the island of dreams, flanking the sparkling Tunisian coastline and guarding an unexpected treasure. Concealed in the modest yet picturesque whitewashed village of Erriadh is a remarkable collection of contemporary urban artwork, woven throughout the surfaces of homes and passageways in this historic community.

This small, unassuming village is home to ‘Djerbahood,’ an open-air art gallery established in 2014. The aesthetic Erriadh features 250 murals, ranging from simple painted pottery to vast, timeless political statements addressing global issues. The project initially attracted 130 artists from 30 countries, and even in 2023, nearly a decade after the first artworks were created, the fading marks of the artists persist.

Djerbahood is a large-scale street art project curated by Mehdi Ben Sheikh, a Tunisian-French artist dedicated to uplifting and promoting street artists. Ben Sheikh, founder and director of Galerie Itinerrance, a Paris-based contemporary art gallery, had previously organized large-scale art projects such as La Tour Paris 13, where 108 artists adorned a soon-to-be-demolished building. The aim was to blend street art with the village’s traditional architecture, creating a unique experience. Villagers who “donated” walls to the project ended up with colorful murals.

Mehdi Ben Sheikh named the project “Djerbahood,” inspired by a Hollywood-like sign spelling out “THE HOOD” installed by French artist Rodolphe Cintorino at the entrance of Erriadh.

As one of the largest permanent street art projects in the world, Djerbahood has attracted hundreds of artists over the past decade. These artists hail from countries such as Saudi Arabia, France, Poland, Spain, Belgium, and Tunisia. Personally approved by Ben Sheikh, the Djerbahood scenes are vibrant, poignant, and thoughtful, showcasing a wide range of cultural perspectives enthusiastically welcomed by the residents.

The Djerbahood street art spectacle has been transformational for the small Tunisian village of Erriadh. The village is now frequented by tourists, exposing the community to a diverse array of visitors. Speaking with the New York Times at the inception of the venture, Abdelkadar, a shopkeeper in Erriadh, highlighted the benefits:

"On my way home, I often stop to speak to the artists who tell me a little bit of their story. Art is important; it encourages us to stay open to others, to other cultures, and I am grateful to this project because it has allowed me to meet people from all over the world, to travel, and best of all, to open my mind."

How was Erriadh chosen in the first place?

Erriadh (also known as Er-Riadh or Hara Sghira Er Riadh), a traditional 2000-year-old community, is renowned for housing North Africa’s oldest synagogue, La Ghriba, a historic pilgrimage site. However, in 2010, the instability caused by the Arab Spring left the Mediterranean island of Djerba suffering from a lack of administrative management. Problems such as waste disposal became significant, reducing the tourist appeal of settlements like Erriadh and limiting their exposure to the outside world.

Erriadh was specifically chosen for Djerbahood due to its traditional architecture, featuring brilliant white houses and distinctly Tunisian cubiform design buildings. It is also one of the oldest villages in Tunisia, where Jews, Muslims, and Christians have coexisted for centuries, forming a millennia-old multicultural society.

Ben Sheikh told The New York Times he believes that street art, as an art form, "transcends style and space" and expressed a desire to undertake a project in Tunisia. He selected Erriadh due to "the natural beauty of the village" that "provides the artists with a unique canvas."

In Erriadh, both the village mayor and individual homeowners had to give explicit permission before the project could proceed. Although initially reluctant, the citizens soon embraced the concept, allowing their properties, mailboxes, steps, and white-washed alleys to be used as canvases for artists from around the world.

Djerbahood is a large-scale street art project curated by Mehdi Ben Sheikh, a Tunisian-French artist dedicated to uplifting and promoting street artists. Ben Sheikh, founder and director of Galerie Itinerrance, a Paris-based contemporary art gallery, had previously organized large-scale art projects such as La Tour Paris 13, where 108 artists adorned a soon-to-be-demolished building. The aim was to

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In fact, Emily immersed herself to the point that she flawlessly speaks Tunisian dialect sauce known to be mutually intelligible with Maltese. This unique linguistic connection is detailed here.

So, let’s (re)discover a few key phrases instructed by our guide:

What’s more, she put her learning into practice to order street food like locals! Let’s go after a spicy snack “Mlewi” followed by a copious bowl of “Lablebi”, Tunisia’s unparalleled chickpea stew:

You heard it all. Emily graciously shared her straightforward, reassuring takeaway on wander and safety across the Medina by night.. I believe this testimonial to be thought-provoking (and provoking, too) for reluctant tourists and locals as well. Nocturnal life in the old town can’t be better presented.

Once home, we might want a digestive, festive evening with a dose of “Boukha”, a national fig spirit cherished by the Tunisian Jews and their fellow citizens.

How about prolonging our delight with a sweet preparation? We can’t recommend enough the infamous Tunisian sorghum pudding called Droô (pronounced dro’). You have been warned though:

⚠️ You may crave a bowl of Dro’ after watching this video – Emily said

Hungry anew? Shall we take one more bowl of Lablebi? Or, do-it-yourself, here and now! We leave you with Lablebi’s 101 by Emily in Tunis:

Bon Appétit, or .. Sahha!

Also called Ftira (plural Ftayer) and Sfenj, Tunisia's Bambaloni consists of a light, spongy ring of dough fried in oil. It is eaten plain, sprinkled with sugar, or soaked in honey.

Originating in Moorish Spain, sfenj is believed to have been created by accident when a baker accidentally dropped a ball of dough into a pan of hot oil. This delectable treat held significant cultural significance in Andalusi culture, as illustrated by a verse from a contemporary poet:

This delicacy is evenly cherished by the people of North Africa, hence the heavily branded name of "Moroccan Doughnuts". Such a sweet competition, isn't it?

Okay – Enough of geography and history, let's savor this appealing delicacy and get to know the unique yet simple recipe behind it:

Ingredients:

• 250g Flour

• 1 cup of hot water

• 1 Tsp of dried yeast

• 1 Tsp of salt

• Oil to deep fry with

Sugar to sprinkle atop the doughnut, literally "the icing on the cake"

Recipe: Easy peasy!

Combine hot water with yeast, then incorporate it into the flour. Continuously mix until a slimy, creamy consistency form, adjusting with water if needed. Allow the mixture to rest for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight.

Heat oil, and attempt to shape the dough into circles in the frying pan. Fry until golden brown, then remove the Bambalounis and sprinkle with sugar for a delectable finish. Voila! There you go!

The night train journey to El Jem transcends the ordinary, offering a unique blend of entertainment and anticipation as passengers are serenaded by musicians en route to the iconic Roman gem.

Upon arrival, the majestic glow of the Colosseum-like beckons visitors, setting the stage for the grand opening of the 31st International El Jem Festival of Symphonic Music.

Under the starlit sky, the timeless ruins of the Thysdrus’ - modern-day El Jem’s - Amphitheatre serve as the backdrop for a captivating showcase of classical artistry. The festival presents an array of performances by international orchestras within the historic confines of this ancient marvel.

Situated 160km south of Tunis, the El Jem Amphitheatre, once a venue for Roman spectacles, now plays host to classical maestros who enchant hundreds of concertgoers amidst the flickering glow of candlelit steps. Since its inception in 1986, the festival has been a beacon for cultural tourism, drawing enthusiasts and aficionados alike to this captivating event.

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In the southern regions of Tunisia, elderly individuals are rediscovering traditional games passed down from their ancestors, such as the game "Kharbga," which had nearly faded into obscurity amidst the fast pace of modern life. Similar in structure to chess, "Kharbga" is played on squares drawn on the ground or asphalt using coal, with participants using stones and bottle caps, attracting the curiosity of young onlookers eager to learn its intricacies.

Gathering in the shade of the Great Mosque's granary in the city of Medenine, elders gather to rekindle the spirit of "Kharbga." They meticulously arrange the squares, often worn away by foot traffic or rain, and gather playing materials: small stones and bottle caps sourced from nearby corners.

While numerous traditional games once thrived in the region, such as Al-Siddah, Al-Khatiwa, and Al-Rabiah, many have sadly begun to fade away with the passage of generations. However, certain games still endure in the collective memory of the populace.

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